Adaptation...This pattern is supposed to be smocked on the skirt with armholes cut out of the skirt portion. Instead, I put the beading and insertion on the bodice pieces and cut the armholes out of that. I gathered the skirt straight all the way around and sewed it to the entreudeux on the edge of the beading. I also did not shorten the skirt, even though I added the width of the insertion to the bodice. I cut a 3" piece of the yellow lawn, folded it and stitched it on the bottom of the skirt. Then I went up 2 1/4" from that seam and made a 5/8" tuck in the skirt."